Epic, Dude.
Lest you think that all I do is sit around moaning about my PhD, taking artsy pictures and writing melancholy, introspective drivel, let's have a change of pace.
A week and a half ago, I had my first surfing lesson. My friend informed me that I had no idea how lucky I was, that the conditions were "epic" and I wouldn't see anything like it for years. And it truly was a gorgeous, sunny, 70 degree January day in La Jolla. The waves were 10 feet according to the surf report, although some of them looked much larger than that to my terrified newbie eyes. He was kind/wise enough to take me down the beach from the big swell, where I could attempt to wobble to my feet on the longboard in 3-4 foot surf rather than getting clobbered/killed by the big waves.
Surfing is HARD WORK, did you know it? "Paddle, paddle, paddle!" I'm in reasonably good shape, but by the end of the session my shoulders and back felt like noodles. I did manage to catch several waves, and even get to my feet on two of them! (Although I am told that I need to practice my "pop-up" skills.)
It was only when I peeled off my wetsuit back at the condo that I discovered the epic bruise. Either the edge of the board or one of the fins had made serious contact with my thigh, leaving a pale impact line flanked by dark purple half-moons. I love a good (non-serious) injury when I've been doing something active. Road-rash/bruising/a little swelling--it's a souvenir, something I can show off to my friends as a visual aid to a good story.
Over the next week it darkened and morphed into a slightly strange shape, although you could still see the line through the middle of it between the purple edges. When I showed it to the surfer last weekend, he was duly impressed. But upon closer inspection, he was amazed. "It looks JUST LIKE the Billabong logo!" he said. A quick internet search confirmed that he was exactly right. Surf company logo bruise from a surfing lesson. How poetic is that?
Bruise:
Billabong logo:
He suggested that I send the picture to the company to see if they'll give me some free stuff.
And because I was bored, I enhanced it with a Sharpie in case it wasn't clear enough before:
6 comments:
Ha! It was just a normal blog post until I reached "enhanced it with a Sharpie." Hahahaha!
Seriously, though. It's soooo neat that you're learning to surf. I'm jealous!
I wasn't convinced until I saw the "enhanced with a sharpie" photo. I think I was having a hard time remembering what the billa bong logo looked like though. Which made me wonder do I not remember because their marketing sucks or because I am not in their market since I doubt they are marketing to mothers with two kids.
BTW: its about time you hit those waves! :) I am jealous and excited for you!
That is hilarious and awesome. I tried surfing, once, in Oregon, and without the benefit of skilled instruction. I, too, had my butt kicked, and am mad impressed that you were able to stand up for two waves! I never got that far...
Learning to surf is on my to do life list. Maybe one day I will have an epic bruise to show off to all the world. Totally dude.
That bruise is totally awesome. As is your Sharpie-enhancement.
Yay! for surfing. I haven't surfed since right after high school, on Oahu and it was amazing and scary and SO fun and yeah, my arms were sore for DAYS afterward. (The "Paddle! Paddle! Paddle!" part was my favorite part.)
hilarious!
It really does look like the logo. It must be a sign.
I hope you sent it in.
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